As the winter season approaches, the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) has issued a stark warning about avalanche dangers, highlighting that experienced mountaineers are involved in nearly half of all avalanche accidents in recent years.

Michael Larcher, head of the ÖAV’s mountaineering department, warned that seasoned climbers often fall victim to “a false sense of control.”

During the 2023/2024 winter season in Austria, 369 people were caught up in avalanche incidents, with 14 losing their lives.

“Professionals spend a lot of time in the mountains and consistently have successful experiences. This can lead to the belief that one has control over the risks posed by the mountains,” Larcher said.

He also stressed the importance of challenging the stereotype that only beginners, careless individuals or tourists are at risk in the mountains.

Experts and the ‘Illusion of Control’

Larcher explained that experienced climbers tend to |skip more and more measures that I know to be correct and useful but that seem unnecessary for me personally.” He said ignoring established safety standards could have “fatal consequences.”

Mountain guides are particularly prone to what he called the “expert trap.” According to Larcher, this can happen “when the pressure to meet expectations leads me to take greater risks.” This issue is most evident during level-four avalanche warnings – indicating high danger – where the number of experts involved in accidents is “alarmingly high.”

Training to Counter Cognitive Errors

To tackle this, Larcher called for training programmes designed to expose the “hazards and cognitive errors” that can develop as expertise grows.

The ÖAV runs an annual “Lawinenupdate” (Avalanche Update) programme, open to beginners, advanced climbers, and experts. The sessions aim to sharpen awareness of avalanche risks and reinforce essential safety practices.